Those clips are held onto it very weakly. Don't just use your thumbs Use your whole palm to twist it, with maybe a thumb in one of the recesses, applying slight downward pressure. I think it depends, I have seen some that are very difficult to open and some super easy. But I see them everyday. I wish there was a tool that fit in the holes. When seating the bottom RAM chip you may have to apply a little extra side force to get it to seat properly.
I put in the new RAM and just got a beeping sound upon starting. I then put the old RAM back in and got the same result. Do it on both sides of the memory. I remember this when I was changing my memory I realized after opening that more you push, more force it take to open the cover. As you push down you force the cover "to rub" the casing and possibly other things inside. If you "lightly" hold the cover it comes right off We found it hard to use the thumbs but if you put the casing on a carpet and one person is holding the case while the other is using his palm of one hand to turn the cover it comes off quite smoothly and without much downward pressure.
I have a late Mac mini, but it must be an earlier version than this late Mac mini in this description, because removing the hard drive is much more complicated than described here. Please see this YouTube video if you have trouble removing your hard drive with these directions. There is a longer process you've got to go through. It can be done, it just takes much longer.
This applied to me as well. The iFixit article was good and lots of helpful information in the comments but my mini was different and required more dismantling. The video sandyfacebook posted was very helpful in taking me the rest of the way. My HDD replacement procedure took 2 jours of research, one night sleeping on it and 30 minutes to perform…. Remove the two On my mini, the fan has a 3rd screw on the bottom right of its housing just out of sight on the step 3 photo.
I believe it was in the hole later referred to as the 26 mm T6 Torx standoff in step Not necessary to remove that screw at that point to get the fan out. It is only a post at that point. I can't, for the life of me, get the left screw out of the cowling. Had to pull both out together. Now having a very hard time getting the cowling back in to replace the fan. Lift the ear of the fan nearest the RAM up off the standoff secured to the outer case. Removing the standoff screw is not necessary to remove the fan.
You need only raise the fan enough to lift it off the standoff screw. Same for me, couldn't get it to move without feeling it was going to break so I just removed the screw. Better to remove the 3rd bolt here, making it easier to remove the fan. It needs to be removed anyway in step Mid The "yellow screw" from step 14 is captive in the fan and has to be removed in step 4. Also it is much easier getting the fan correctly aligned on the stand of rubbery bit if you have the screw removed.
Grab all the wires at once and gently pull straight up to disconnect the fan from the logic board. Alternatively, slide a spudger underneath the wires and pry up to disengage the connector. Do not pry at the socket, or you will rip it from the logic board. You actually don't need to disconnect the fan. You can just let it hang on the side while working. I accidentally killed my connector trying to pry it loose. It's being held together now by some tape, after spending hours trying to reconnect it and figuring out pin outs. It is much better to leave the fan connected. The only thing you actually need to disconnect is the hard drive.
Those wires are delicate, as is the connector. Just move it off to the side. Do the same for the antenna plate. The fewer connectors you touch, the fewer things you break! Using a spudger tool helps here. I mistakenly thought that the connector would slide off the logic board and tried to remove the connector this way.
Mac mini Late 2012 Repair
Yeah, I did the same thing by following someone elses "shortcut". Now I am going to shell out for quad core i5 board, and a new fan BTW. Oh well never a dull moment: That's probably the must tricky part of the replacement. I did the same thing, i just pull on my cables and the connector stays on the board. Tried many times to switch cables into but any order i try is not the good one. The avoid this, now, when i want to pull out my fan, i just use a plate screwdriver and lift up the connector. That's work perfectly.
I've just pulled out the connector that's soldered to the logic board because I used a pry tool. Be careful at this point to just pull gently on the four cables that go to the fan. The CAUTION in step 13, "Make sure to pry up from beneath the wires and not underneath the socket," applies to this step as well, for removal of the fan wires. I screwed it too Not reading carefully enough, I accidentally removed the whole socket from the board. This happened with the IR connector too.
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When re-assembling the parts, the socket wouldn't stick to the board, now I know why. I don't want to buy a new logic board, because I can't afford one, so I'm trying to find someone to solder it. Seems hard to find someone able to repair logic boards these days. Hope I'll be successful, otherwise this is an expensive upgrade to my mac Followed all the instructions, everything went well, but now my mini fan won't turn off.
It starts as soon as I boot up. I've tried every fan control software out there, and nothing works; the fan just constantly runs. What else can I do? The problem is most likely a disconnected or damaged temperature sensor, I had this problem when reassembling a Mac mini. It can't read the temperature, so assumes the worst and sets the fan to maximum.
I broke the fan wires from the connector plug. Impossible to repair. I have ordered a new fan. Is there a correct orientation to plugging in the new connector? For heavens sake please DON'T remove the fan. It's really really hard to reconnect it properly. Does anyone know how to solve the full RPM fan issue? My computer guy couldn't solve with fan control software. UGH I wish i read the comments. You have to pull upwards, vertically away from the board.
If you pull more downwards parallel to the board, you may end up wrecking the connector by pulling the wires out of it as I did. Broke it! What can I use as a shield for dust but still allow for airflow? Note that when you are replacing this cowling you are putting the screw back into what looks like another screw that holds the heat sink to the logic board.
Disconcerting but correct. Note That the arc of the cowling does not butt to the edge of the chassis. But slides in below it. Once the two screws on the heat sink are aligned with the cowling holes, it's good to go. Look very closely at how this is set. Take a photo. Because when I put mine back together it took 45 minutes just to get the fan and this cowling to fit in place next to each other.
The cowling has a notch close to the midpoint of the flange that goes under the outer case, which slides onto a standoff screw attached to the logic board. I used a Sharpie marker to put one "alignment mark" on the inner edge of the outer case. I put another alignment mark from the midpoint of the cowling notch out onto the visible part of the cowling. This made it much easer to reassemble, especially since my standoff post provided a tight fit, which, when I did this the first time, felt like "it doesn't fit.
On reassembly, if you're having trouble lining up the cowling with the screw holes, you can try pulling the logic board out a tad and set the cowling in place. Just try not to damage the cowling or the inside of the outer case when sliding it back in! It can be difficult to get the hard drive seated correctly such that the antenna plate fits in place correctly.
If the screw holes don't line up with those on the hard drive, make sure that the two pins that are in the back of the hard drive are properly seated in the holes at the back of the case, above the housing for the second hard drive. The antenna attaches directly to the hard drive red markers , therefore attaching the antenna can move the hard drive around and loosen the connection of the hard drive cable to the logic board.
When reassembling this aerial plate, it may take a very strong force to align the side lips with the screw bays. The circular edge on the body is meant to slot into the plate by less than 1mm. I followed the rule of thumb, which is, if it takes an unusual force, stop and think it out to avoid a disaster! Then, I hit on using a paper clip to get around this problem. Make a paper clip L-shaped to loop through a hole close to the edge of the plate, where the slotting is not deep enough. Gently lifting the paper clip, slide and push the aerial plate in place.
This worked like a charm without using a strong force. Basically the antenna mesh has a tongue and grove relationship with the mac mini shell; it is hard to see, but along the curved edge has a concave grove which needs to be widened. You can widen this concave grove with a paper clip and then it will fit perfectly. My only real problem in the whole process was putting back the antenna plate. Couldn't get both side screws to align.
Ended up leaving one out but might try the paper clip trick now. I had a similar experience, but when I realized the two 5. In my case, the top lip of the antenna plate has a notch which aligns with the edge of the opening was preventing the perfect fit.
Anyone added an SSD?
All I did in my case was use the spudger to pry open the notch a little more to give me a little bit extra space so that edge of the aluminum enclosure fits into that notch on the top of the antenna plate. Hope that helps. I was installing an SSD in my mini and when I got to this step, an issue came up. The two 6. The problem was the SSD was thinner than the original hard drive, so when I tried to reassemble, the hard drive sat too low for the screws to reach it.
Here's how I got around the problem. I loosely attached the antenna plate to the hard drive, leaving plenty of wiggle room between the plate and the drive. I also left the two stand off screws on the logic board off to give me more wiggle room there. Using the antenna plate as a handle, I was able to guide the SSD into the hard drive mount.
Once in place, I tightened the 6. After insuring that the screws all lined up, I installed and tightened the logic board, then the other antenna plate screws. I was able to achieve the same result with an slim SSD disk by simply turning the computer around with the access hole down so that gravity would pull the SSD towards the antenna plate. After trying these suggestions with a thinner SSD and couldn't get anywhere I used a bent paper clip, L-shaped, to act as a hook.
One end I was able to simply hook under the drive and pull it up to install that ends screw loosely. The opposite end I inserted the paper clip through the antenna grate, again pulled up on the drive, installed the screw and carefully pulled the paper clip out.
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The "engineering tolerances" are definitely tight for the AirPort antenna plate. I would recommend trying to replace it as soon as it's removed for the first time, in order to work out the precise alignment of it. Nothing I tried including the suggestions here seemed to help me during reassembly. No matter what I tried, I couldn't get the holes for the two 5. It is very hard to see - I used a magnifying glass. To get it into place, create a tiny hook on the end of a paperclip. Moving along the edge of the grate, lift a perforation with the hook to help it slip into place.
Keep moving along the edge until entire grate is shifted into place. I had several 2-terminal connectors that went to what appeared to be temperature sensors on several components including the hard disk and optical drive. I accidentally pulled the wires out of one of these connectors. Lucky for me, they came out clean and I was able to just re-insert them into the connector. T-9 didn't work in orange. As everyone else has noted during re-assembly, seating the antenna plate is tricky. For me, what ended up working was to attach the hard drive screws first. After this, with just a little wiggling of the plate, the 2 5mm screw holes lined up perfectly.
Aligning the drive holes with the ones on the antenna grate was easy — just take the pointy end of the spudger. Also, for getting the circular part of the grate set correctly, I had to bend down the outermost part a tiny little bit and then used curved tweezers to lift the grate once it was near its final position to get it slide in the last millimeter. Frustrating at first, but it worked after a few tries.
Has anyone had any trouble getting the two 5. I can't seem to get them in, as they just keep on turning. I thought the thread may have been damaged but I then removed the plate and could screw them in position okay. It seems the depth of the plate is causing the screws to not go down far enough. I've had to leave these off at the moment obviously not great as this means the bottom cover is loose.
Any ideas? I had the same problem but only on one of the two screws. Then I realized there's a little tiny "o-ring" underneath which is acting like a nut. I lost one of them in the process of upgrading. If I could find out where to buy a new one I would! The antenna plate seems to give most people problems. Somewhere along the line I found reference to "a wiggle here and a wiggle there" and that seemed to work.
Shy away from the brute force - it's the surest way to damage something. Despite all the efforts, I couldn't manage to insert both side screws for the antenna plate. I ended up only using a single one the one nearest to the HD connector , hoping it will hold the weight of the SSD. Same issue with that antenna plate - take a look at it from the side and you will see the incredibly tight gap which the lip of the case needs to slot into. I assumed it simply butted up against the case, but no. I used a big paper clip as suggested here, putting in one screw and then lifting through the perforations while applying a little pressure to the plate.
Turned out there was one point misaligned and after a few tries it popped back in. The thickness of your hard drive or SSD plays a part here, I think. After replacing this with a Samsung Evo it was much easier, I think because the lower drive has more room to breathe. For those having trouble reinstalling the Aerial Plate, it is probably a matter of alignment. The recessed edge of the plate slides all the way up under the lip edge of the case. I used my iFixit bent tweezers spread and inserted through a couple holes to lightly pull up on the grate while pushing on the flat edge.
No hard force was required. It just snapped right in. You'll know when it is home because it will be a snug fit to the edge of the case inside the arc of the opening. I would also add that during the reassembly process, make sure the drive stays firmly seated in the grommets. There's a tendency for it to come out or partially out.
I kept nudging on it to make sure it was fully seated. Then the antenna screws line up nicely. Some of the problems I read about getting the screws in I suspect arise form the hard drive not being fully seated. Al Dente and Chris provided the key for me. I used the logic board tool to help lift the cutout sections into place on the top part. Once I did that I slid in to place so easily I almost pulled it out of place trying to adjust it. Hilariously, I was trying all the tricks, with the paper clip, and putting the drive screws in first, nothing working for me to get the case screw holes aligned.
What finally helped me was to check things one at a time. To check the tongue-and-groove fit, I installed the antenna plate by itself, with the hard drive removed. I used a spudger to pry open the groove on the antenna plate, since I had closed it a bit by forcing things. After the antenna plate was going in by itself, I focussed on the hard drive. At first, I was pre-attaching the hard drive to the antenna plate, but this makes it hard to see if the hard drive is going in as far as it should.
Getting the two protruding screws on the hard drive into their holes is tricky I found turning the Mini upside down to use gravity helped , but for me it was some wires at the side of the hard drive space that were getting under the drive and making it sit up high that was the problem. Once I got the hard drive in, and then the antenna plate, I could get the last two screws which hold the drive to the plate to catch by turning the Mini upside down and tapping it on top to bring the hard drive close to the plate. Then it will fit without forcing it. Agnes Riley - January 13 Reply.
Do not remove the antenna plate yet. Here's where it started going south on me because the two T8 screws aren't really attached to anything because my hard drive is on the top of the case where the DVD drive used to be. The top curved part of the antenna plate has a thin lip on the bottom edge, but is very flexible. During reassembly when sliding the antenna plate back into position, if the 4 holes do not exactly line up, then try bending that lip downward a bit and the antenna plate should then line up perfectly.
Actually, curved edge of antenna has a groove into which an edge of aluminium body should slide in. In my case a vary slight lift by putting tip of tweezers into one of the antenna top holes made a good help - antenna popped into correct position. Absolutely correct. The wide-head screws holding in the antenna plate may be used on the upper side of the HD SSD in my case to help hold the side of the HD that slips under the case -up- so the two side mounting screws in the drive may be seated properly in the case.
This is easier to do than to describe. Others have noted this, as well and I followed the advice. This, agreed. Do as Radioman says. Far less complicated and I had everything apart and back together within 10 minutes. Carefully let it follow the logic board assembly when you take that it out completely in the nex steps. I skipped steps 10 and 11 but had to do the rest to get the drive out. My system had a second drive so that may be why the logic board had to be removed to have enough room to get the drive out past the DIMM sockets.
On the Late model the antenna connector is hidden under the case, so unlike as indicated in step 10 you can not see the connector and definitely not remove it until the Logic Board has been eased out an inch. Note how the cable makes a loop under the case as it is removed. Remember to reconnect the same way with the loop and connected before the logic board is pushed in all the way. The antenna connector is underneath a black flap.
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I just lifted the flap slightly with a spudger and used my fingers to disconnect. The antenna plug is hidden under a plastic cover and some tape on it. You have to push up the cover and remove the tape If your machine came with a 7mm drive and you are replacing with a 7mm drive you do not need to move the logic board. I installed an Intel GB drive which is a 9. When removing the wifi antenna make sure you use a plastic spudger and lever up underneath the wire.
I used a metal screwdriver and levered up from the side opposite the wire and ripped the pico-ITX connector right off the board! Fortunately I only use my mini via Ethernet, but now I have no choice! Did you actually break it? It pops out easily and can actually be plugged back in easily too with tweezers or small needle nose pliers. I did the same thing with no permanent damage. I think sandyfacebook is speaking about the mini server with the second drive this guide is about replacing the primary drive.
BTW, I agree with radioman: Just stop after step 12 and pull the drive out. The trouble starts when you try to put it back in because gravity is working against you: The trick is to flip the mini up onto its front edge and after a couple of tries the buttons on the HD will engage their sockets. There's no real need to disconnect the antenna.
You can just lay the grill gently on its side and leave it connected. That is true if you do not need to remove the logic board i. You can leave the antenna plate attached and remove the logic board if you're careful while removing the motherboard. You might find the two silver screws along the edge of the grill will not attach. That's because the hard drive was installed a millimeter or two in the wrong place or maybe the new hard drive has screw holes offset, in the wrong place.
This happened to me. Rather than take it apart again , I'll just secure the two screws that go into the tabs. No question this will keep things secure enough just a question if I'll suffer noise or rattle. Extra screws are fun: You can gently use the tip of a screwdriver to align the antenna plate screw holes as long as your hard drive pegs are aligned. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the hard drive connector up from its socket on the logic board. At this point I could remove the hard drive by gently pulling it.
There is no need to remove the motherboard! Same here. I just place two of my torx head screwdrive tips in the holes on the drive and levered it out. Really easy and, well, created my own 12 step program. Don't remove the motherboard, and don't buy the tool to do it. When it's time to slide out the logic board, just push gently on the inside of the metal air guide fins on the intake. Be mindful of the length of wires going from under the RAM out to the front of the case, as you don't want to pull hard or disconnect these..
I decided that there was a greater risk of breaking something by not removing the logic board than by removing it. The old hard drive comes out easily enough, but the new one would just not quite go in for me. Lining the screws on the outside of the new hard drive with the rubber grommets is so much easier with the logic board out. I used masking tape with pencil marks on the case and on the drive in order to line up the screws and the grommets with the case right side up. IMHO, by the time the antenna is off, removing the logic board is relatively easy.
Yes, if you have come this far just pull the drive out because removing the bluetooth connector and the motherboard is troublesome. If you just pull the drive out at this point the only difficulty is when you try to put it back in because gravity is working against you: Use the tip of a spudger to lift the IR sensor connector up and out of its socket on the logic board. You can remove the hard drive by lifting out after step 9, it's not necessary to disconnect the wireless, nor remove the system board. I did not remove the IR sensor. I attempted to and it was very difficult, I felt like I was going to snap or damage the logic board.
I would advise skipping this part since it's not necessary to removal of the hard drive, and it seems like a number of people have damaged their logic board while trying to disconnect the IR sensor. That third screw on the lower right hand side should be removed in the beginning when you remove the fan. Agree with all the previous: The connector is VERY delicate. That is true! I just used the tip of a screw driver in the screw holes on the drive to help slide the drive out. The hard part is putting the new drive back in position, due to the 2 screws at the back have to fit into the 2 holes in the rubber at the back of the bay.
I finally stood the mini on end, so the drive would fall down into position. Then I stuck a suction cup on the drive to then pull the drive towards me to get the screws and the holes in the rubber to line up. This was my first time taking apart my Mac mini. I wanted to upgrade my hard drive and RAM. However, when I came to this step I pulled the motherboard out a little bit to hard after tugging on it gently a few times, but it wasn't coming out and the wires came out.
So I was wondering is this fixable? Thank you. I managed to lift the IR connector and the base it connects to I tried to put it back without breaking the pins but failed. Fortunately, the IR sensor is the least useful part of this device for me, so no loss. I tried to reconnect this IR plug, but managed to crush all the pins on the logic board.
I was gentle the entire time, but I simply could not see how the two fit together, and I still don't. I broke off all the dangling pins and removed them and will now leave the IR connector dangle. These instructions should provide a better visualization for this step. And by the way, I had to remove this connector because I was replacing both drives of a Fusion logical volume.
After fiddling with a spudger and then two spudgers and not being happy at all with the direction of the forces I feel that the only safe way to do this, in my opinion, is to slide something under the wires of the IR connector I used a narrow cable tie, but maybe a suitably bent paper clip would do it too. Make sure this is sitting as close to the connector as possible and then pull directly upwards away from the board.
The idea being to exert a force equally on all the wires at right angles to the board. Finger-tighten two long screws that fit the two holes on the drive and use this to remove the old drive, and then screw them into the new drive and use them to properly align and insert. The 26 mm T6 Torx standoff is actually part of the the third fan screw which was removed earlier in order to get the fan out. On my model, this was not a "pull up" cable that needs a spudger, it was a regular "slide" in connector.
To remove the logic board, the two cylindrical rods of the Mac mini Logic Board Removal Tool must be inserted into the holes highlighted in red. Inserting instruments into any logic board holes other than the ones highlighted in red may destroy the logic board. Be sure it makes contact with the top side of outer case below the logic board before proceeding. You may not find it necessary to push out the logic board in order to slide in or out the hard drive. It helps to have the extra room to maneuver, but it can be done without.
I had read all the comments thet said the HDD can be taken out at step 12, besides I'm in France, so I hadn't bought the special tool. I inserted 2 screwdrivers in the holes and tried to move them both simultaneously. The clips from step 16 had unclipped by themselves, causing the noise. For a second I thought I had broken everything. I really don't recomment doing this without the tool. I didn't have the opportunity to get the removal tool before starting my tear-down but when I got to the Removal Tool stage I used a pair of small allen keys, just big enough to fit through the holes in the logic board.
You can feel them engage into the holes below the logic board. Easy, steady pressure on both does the job well.
If you are this far into a tear-down it's a good idea to pop the logic board and replace the battery - a 3Volt It's on the under side of the board below the antenna and HDD. May save having to come back this way again This step may require more force than expected. I was very careful and pulled the remove tool out too early. You have to put a bit of will into it and push it at least 0. For this, I discovered that no special tool was needed. I simply pushed the logic board towards the back of the case where the ports are, slid out easy peasy.
Also, be sure to withdraw the special tool or any substitute before prying out the logic board more than just a bit. In my case, the tool restricted the board's movement, and it took me a while to understand why I wasn't getting anywhere. I used two 2. They worked like a dream. It took me a little while to realize that they needed to be lifted slightly from the underlying case in order for the board to slide out.
I put two small screwdrivers in these holes and pulled and had my son push on the far side of the logic board. It took two of us to get it to move. I wish I had read these comments before I spent the ten dollars on the tool I'm not criticizing ifixit here, but I wasted my money. You could always create your own logic-board removal by re-bending what's known as a "landscaping staple". It's just stiff steel wire. Once the hard drive cable is detached from the logic board, one can lift the side of the hard drive closest to the logic board just enough to clear the RAM bracket and then carefully slide it out.
It may be easier to remove it with the logic board pulled out but in my opinion the logic board and CPU should be left alone unless it is absolutely necessary. Pull the hard drive away from the front edge of the mini and remove it from the outer case. If you are not careful, you can mess up the rubber shock absorbers by misaligning the posts. If that happens, you will have a hard time getting the screws to line up when putting the perforated grille back on wifi antenna grill.
The easy way that I found to do this properly is to turn upside down the mac mini in order to have the HD at the top of the mini and the 2 screws at the back of the HD perfectly up at the level of the 2 holes on the shock absorber. Your guide is OK, but in step 17 I have a big problem. HDD in my Mini was securing with two screws. So first I need to remove logic board and unplug the power connector. Then remove two screws from HDD side. Can anyone confirm that those "2 screw" holding HDD to plastic frame in step 17 are "T8 torx"?
I can confirm as well.
Mac mini teardowns are underway, with good news and bad news - 9to5Mac
I pried off the large connector off the main board to get to those screws. They t8 and were screwed on very tightly in my case. My MacMini bought late , had the HDD installed in the upper bay, so a complete teardown was required in order to change the driver. However, if you are planning just to add a second driver, there is no need for the doubler kit only a new lower flex drive.
If you are having a! I used two plastic pegs to do this as well. You can pull the HDD out without sliding the board at steps 15 and Quite tricky, but you can. I had the same problem as Roman, I just figured I would add that those "two screws" are T8 screws and that there is a cable on the right side which you should be careful about while removing and reinserting the said screws.
In my model, this didn't just slide out. It was attached to a caddy that required removal of the power supply see other guides for how to do this which was a nightmare to get back in the same spot. I just did this upgrade and my HDD was secured with screws on both sides of the caddy. I actually think the caddy is really only designed to hold a single drive, kind of in the middle position, i.
In any case, this requires removal of the logic board, power supply, and caddy, entirely, in order to remove the existing drive. Tedious, but I didn't have any problems on reassembly. With the current trend, we look forward to maybe one day tearing down a smaller version of the Mac mini: But until then, we content ourselves with tearing into the Mac mini Late Want to be kept in the loop about all of our latest teardowns, big and small? Follow us on Twitter , or check us out on New Myspace to keep up with all the latest iFixit news. This teardown is not a repair guide. To repair your Mac mini Late , use our service manual.
This mini lacks an optical drive, just like its predecessor. It's beginning to feel like Groundhog Day. The same model number A has graced the and minis. A simple twist of the bottom cover and we're in. That is plus one for repairability. Upgradeable RAM!! Oh, how we've missed you! Easily accessible fans mean soot sprites better run for cover, because cleaning dirty fans is no problem. Need to clean your fan? Directions can be found here. We are really starting to suspect that Dr. Emmett Brown had something to do with this mini as the antenna board and grille look identical to the last two renditions.
Here we find the legendary Mac mini logic board removal tool in its natural habitat. Note the ease of use as the tool swoops in to release the logic board of the mini. The speaker cable was arranged in a twisted pair , probably to reduce EMI that could distort the sweet, iconic tones of the Apple startup sound. Broadcom BCM Broadcom BCM Bluetooth 4. Apple has really keyed in on their boomerang-style heat sink abilities—and for that, we applaud them. We know boomerangs can be tough to master.
Similar, again! We have not tried installing old mini parts in the mini, but we are certainly not ruling out the possibility! A few twists of our precision aluminum driver with a T6 Torx bit and some cable de-routing is all it takes to remove the shield. The mini is one of the Macs launched with the Fusion Drive. It is beginning to feel repetitive to say how repetitive Apple is in the design of the mini; nonetheless, the power supply appears identical to last year's model.
In this case, we have to say that repetition is a good thing, as the mini continues to be one of the most repairable devices that Apple produces. Just like last year, the power supply provides 85 watts to the Mac mini—that's the same kind of electric juice as the AC adapter for a 15" or 17" MacBook Pro. We were especially curious to see if this new Mac mini is still compatible with our dual hard drive upgrade kit , so we got to testing it!
Following along with our own guide for the model was a snap, and everything fit perfectly. Mac mini Mid Repairability: